BE PREPARED
Practicing in the
climbing gym and
getting some “air time”
on steep rock is
important. If you are
planning to rappel down
some of the sections of
the climb, don't make
the Granite Peak rappel
be the first one you set
up for the season.
Practice, practice,
practice, makes for safe
routines you hands and
feet will remember --
when that storm sneaks
up on you and you've
got to get down off the
mountain quickly.
There are dozens of websites recounting personal climbing experiences on
Granite Peak. Some of them are helpful, but the single best resource is the new
map by Joe Josephson Granite Peak, Montana's Highest Point, A Climbing
Guide marketed through First Ascent Press. It has a large map, of course, but
also route descriptions, pictures, gear recommendations, and history. Select
Peaks of Greater Yellowstone, by Thomas Turiano is fabulous resource to
read. Finally, Climbing Granite Peak, A Beartooth Challenge, By Donald B.
Jacobs is helpful and includes a description of a rescue of an injured climber.
(We have no financial stake in the sale of any of these items.)
Take What You Need
The chief dangers other than
you falling in some exposed
area, are rocks (knocked off
by those above you) and
weather. Lots of people climb
Granite in late summer with no
gear: no rope, no harness, no
slings, no cams, etc. If
anything goes wrong on the
mountain, however, you're
stuck. But the more experience
you have climbing, the safer
you'll be without gear.

I suggest at least the following
for the summit day:

  • helmet
  • ice axe
  • rain gear
  • rope
  • harness
  • rappel device
  • several slings
  • first aid
  • water
  • snacks
Check the Weather
Pay close attention to the
weather before you start
out, both the weather
immediately before you
leave and the forecast for
what it'll be like when you
are up there. We've been
snowed on, hailed on,
rained on and hiked into a
gusty wind strong enough
to knock us off our
balance. And that's during
the good weather season
in August! One weekend I
delayed a trip from
Saturday to Sunday
because of a 30% chance
of showers. On the Froze
To Death Plateau that
turned into a 6 hour
deluge of rain, hail, high
winds and lightning.

Much of the weather
comes in from the West
which means that the
storms come in from the
far side of the route
where
you can't see them
.
Get an early start
If you go in peak climbing season you
may wait an hour or more at the crux of
the route for other climbers. It is
common for there to be 20 or more on
the route and many are inexperienced.
Be patient with them and wait your
turn. The earlier you start, the more
time you give yourself to complete the
climb safely, still allowing for these
delays. You want to be off the
mountain by early before the afternoon
thunderboomers come in.
Train Your Head
READ UP